How much does a car broker cost?

Updated November 10, 2026

The three ways brokers get paid

If you ask around, you'll find that brokers don't all work the same way. Almost every pricing setup falls into one of three buckets, and it's worth knowing which one you're dealing with before you hand over any information.

Flat fee. You pay one set amount, agreed before any work starts. It doesn't go up if the car costs more, and it doesn't shrink if the savings are small. The big advantage is that you know your cost on day one and can compare it directly to what the broker saves you.

Percentage of savings. Some brokers charge a cut of the difference between the sticker price (or a quote you already had) and the price they get. That sounds fair, but it depends heavily on what the starting number is. If the starting number is MSRP plus a big markup, the "savings" can look huge on paper. Ask exactly how savings are calculated before you agree to this.

Dealer-paid. Some brokers charge you little or nothing, because the dealer pays them a fee for bringing in the sale. This is the one I'd be most careful with.

Why dealer-paid brokers have a conflict

When the dealer is the one paying, the broker's real customer is the dealer. That doesn't automatically make the person dishonest, but it changes the incentives in ways that are hard to ignore.

• The broker has a reason to send you to the dealers that pay them, not the ones with the best price.
• The fee the dealer pays has to come from somewhere. Usually that's the price of your car, your financing, or add-ons.
• A broker who depends on a dealer's goodwill for future deals is less likely to push that dealer hard on yours.

"Free" broker services aren't free. You're paying, you just can't see where. If a broker won't tell you plainly who pays them and how much, I'd keep looking.

What my fee is and when you pay it

My fee is $650, flat. You pay it only when you take delivery. If I can't find a deal you like, or you change your mind, you don't owe me anything.

I don't take commissions, kickbacks or "referral fees" from dealers. That's on purpose. It means I can go to any dealer, in Florida or out of state, and the only thing I care about is the number they give you.

The fee covers the work you'd otherwise do yourself: finding the right car, getting dealers to compete, negotiating price, fees, add-ons and your trade-in, checking the finance rate, and making sure the paperwork matches what was agreed.

How to tell if a broker's fee is fair

Rather than comparing brokers by price alone, I'd ask each one a few direct questions:

• Who pays you, and is any money coming from the dealer?
• When do I pay, and do I owe anything if I don't buy?
• Will you give me a written out-the-door price before I commit?
• Do you negotiate fees and add-ons, or just the sticker price?
• Can you shop dealers outside my area?

A good broker answers all of these without hesitating. A fee that's a bit higher but fully transparent will usually beat a "free" service that's quietly getting paid on the back end.

When a broker fee isn't worth paying

I'll be straight with you: on some cars there just isn't enough room to make a broker worth it. A very inexpensive car with heavy incentives and plenty of supply is often already priced close to the bottom. If that's your situation, I'll tell you. I have a longer take on that in is a car broker worth it.

Questions people ask me

Next step

If you'd like to know whether I can beat what you're being offered, send me the details through the quote form or text me at (863) 738-6266. I work with buyers all over the country. You can also read how to get a real out-the-door price before you talk to anyone.

General information only, not tax or legal advice. Tax rates, fees and rules change, so confirm current figures with your county tax collector or the relevant agency.